My chain hits my chest when I’m banging on the dashboard (because I’m angry. And my Beemer can drive on two wheels. I’m driving it to the doctor to get some Xanax and then Blockbuster for a pre-owned DVD of Happy Feet 2 and then Hermes for a blanket and going in to my room and staying there until Spring arrives, like a fat squirrel).
Keys to the Benz? Sloppy Joe-anna, a la parisienne.
A seriously exaggerated tooth of the hound, at 3.1 Phillip Lim.
Marc Jacobs goes insane goes insane, with the glitter make it rain. NO @MARC JACOBS.
If I were Barneys or V Magazine or i-D or Creatures of Comfort I would rent Westway this October, like on October 5th, and have a concert where Pictureplane opens for Crystal Castles who opens for Bloc Party and Carine would come from Paris and have so much fun that she would move to New York, like to Grand and Centre St., and start a magazine called Swagga and hire Elliot and I as editors. Could happen.
In other news, here are more images from the shows. The good ones:
Wayne. Kinda Calvin Klein, kinda Anne Demeulemeester. Very awesome.
3.1 Philip Lim. Yum.
Helmut Lang. Designer couple Nicole and Michael Colovos
Calvin Klein Collection. Perfection.
-Isabel
More Words Of Profound Fashion Wisdom:
- Ming Xi is actually, as of 2:56PM on Wednesday 2/16, my favorite f*cking model of the season. Her cheekbones could literally finely slice deli meat.
- I went out last night, head foggy in comatose exhaustion, the world flying around in space, all of that existential “What am I doing?” bullsh*t included. Looking around my group at The Bowery Hotel (for Jen Kao’s after-party), I realized we were all suffering, working ourselves to the bone/drinking ourselves through the maelstrom. Someone uttered, “I’m definitely not going to the V Man party after this. I’m going to my Tempur-pedic King sized bed, with a Hot Totty, and hopefully that boy over there to snuggle with.”
- Phillip Lim is a genius. The first look blew my mind. He is the one designer that truly falls in to my mental rhythm – that is, he strips and cuts down drama to the point where it isn’t visible. It’s cold, hard, clean, well-designed clothes that Lim does best. Actually very WASPy in context, if you ask me.
- Jeremy Scott made a funny by showing shirts with “MILK KILLS” emblazoned across the sternum. HILARIOUS, because he always shows at Milk Studios. Look, it’s E+I’s friend Mateus walking in Scott’s show!
- Rodarte… so pretentiously disappointing. Though hair and makeup was spot on. Clothes were Kansas Redux, floor length Great Depression-esque coats and dresses in dowdy patterning. Red (referencing Dorothy’s slippers) dresses didn’t work. PRINTS OF AMBER WAVES OF GRAIN on silk dresses OBVIOUSLY didn’t work. I appreciate Rodarte, I think, but to say I was underwhelmed is being generous.
- Ralph Lauren tomorrow. Proenza Schouler today. Then the circus jets over to the UK and peace returns to this city’s lean mean streets.
-Elliot
What happened to my fun Lim girls? What happened to my pretty young glittery Hollywood things? Why did my Mom call me this morning saying, “I saw someone called Phillip Lim on Style.com – I love his stuff!”
For S/S2011, Mr. Lim took the fast-track to hyper-maturity, and perhaps a misstep in conceptualization. Some things didn’t make much sense, like suspended collars (a la Prada anybody?) and cinched waistcoats over dresses but under mini skirts. It’s confusing to describe, let alone look at. But, goddamnit, where was the fun? I’ve come to know and absolutely adore 3.1 as a relatively affordable, perfect stop for cool and young and unique and deliciously wearable clothes for men and I imagine the same goes for women. Remember last season with the sick soundtrack and the sheered-away purple glitter dresses and the flared mohair pants? The f*ck is going on right now?! Not sure I like this pared down trend that’s been statically emanating off the runways.
Here are my two favorite looks:
Interesting, but not overwhelmingly cool, nothing to write home about.
I think this season is the first in a while w/o Christian Louboutin on footwear. Curious to see detail shots.
One thing that is nice, still, with Phillip is his casting. As Isabel said this morning via BBM – “proof that hot girls can wear anything.”
-Elliot
Filed under: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Burberry Prorsum, Opening Ceremony, Stella McCartney
Did you know? That many of the song titles from all the Kitsune albums make great titles for this blog? Elliot is great at titling his posts because he has a reserve in his brain where he stores different versions of absurdity because he is insane. But I am sane-ish and therefore resort to certain song titles that usually have nothing to do with what I’m writing about. But they also could potentially have everything to do with what I’m writing about. Like this title. “Party Party Party” is actually a lil’ snippet from a track by certain rapper who drops lots of ill sh*t from jail (there’s always a first time to say “ill” and that was it) and “Let My Shoes…” is a track by Jenny Wilson off the Kitsune Maison Compilation 2 that illustrates what this post really is all about, which is these Burberry Prorsum boots:
The Burberry Prorsum Shearling Boots. Wear with any of the items below to protect your feet from the what they look like in summer when you’re out till 4am. Available at Brown’s London 
Philip Lim ParTAY Dress. Available at Barney’s
The Givenchy Leather & Lace Dress. Available at NK Store in Sao Paolo and probably other places and it will probably get worn by like Cameron Diaz or Serena on the new season of Gossip Girl and I will eventually hate it, but at the moment this is one of my favorite dresses I have ever seen because you can wear it with red tights and look like a Croatian hooker, except you’re wearing Givenchy.
If you go out for dinner or drinks with a guy that a) cares about fashion and “gets” the intelligent fashionista look or b) thinks Natalie Portman, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Aggy Dean, or Alexa Chung are “really hot” then wear this dress by Opening Ceremony, available at Opening Ceremony.
A not necessarily fake, actually very real, but very soft, rabbit coat that you can wear Edie Sedgewick style, meaning you can be super wasted and still look fabulous if you have this coat. Available at Opening Ceremony.
-Isabel
Scott Schuman has been in Italy quite a bit lately. Not complaining, just jealous.
Alexa Chung at the Costume Institute Gala wearing 3.1 Philip Lim. She wins for best sharp body angles-Heidi Slimane should take pictures of her. Photo from Style.com
More Sartorialism, per gli uomini
Sienna Miller from a Style.com stolen photograph wearing: The. Coolest. Outfit. Ever. (i.e Rag & Bone booties and a monogramed LV duffel that manages to make Goyard look like Coach, even though it’s Louis Vuitton.
“End of Summer” photograph?
-Isabel
3.1 Philip Lim Shorts
Gold Docs
Gold YSL Necklace
Isn’t it enough just to look at it?
“Nina” Shades
-Isabel
Filed under: 3.1 Phillip Lim
This made me think of some recent iPhone misspellings I’ve enjoyed. If I tell you what I meant to say it’s so much less interesting.
“Injustice hi.”
“Jedi slimane”
“I never knew you did thy shape”
“nothing sleeping, bathing, buying cogs”
“and have multiple racial babies”
Filed under: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Fashion Week New York, Fashion Week Paris, Hermes, Musings
Another month has come and gone. Not much has changed in the rest of the world. I’m still in Miami, having cancelled my U.K. weekend because of a nasty little cold (thank you British Airways for your 80% refund policy). Retailers are buying and editors are flying samples all over the place preparing for upcoming issues. Life goes on.
Well, looking back, I’ve been trying to find a singular trend, or feeling, or theme for the collections we saw over the past four weeks. We’ve observed the 1990′s, the power-woman, the androgyny again, the return of the curvy model (a la Prada and Louis Vuitton), the color beige…the list goes on. However, none of these trends have really adhered in my thinking overall re: FW2010.
I couldn’t quite figure it out until today, when I was searching for my top three favorite looks to post. I was finalizing my selection when it hit me: this month has been, really, all about the “edited concept” – that is, the brilliant minds of our designers working and molding their visions in to clean, beautiful, and wearable outfits. This was the season of smart fashion – I cannot think of any other time when we’ve seen so much…intelligence…showing through on the runway.
Many people have said to me that this month was “underwhelming,” but I respectfully disagree. This month was stellar – the thought and time and consideration and little twists and turns virtually seethed off the catwalks. If someone had no idea about fashion – a complete and total blank slate – this would be a great launching point to showcase just how smart and innovative and calculated fashion can be. See below for my top three favorite looks of FW2010 (+ a bonus).
Whilst looking over Bottega Veneta’s collection over and over again, I kept pausing on this dress. This dress is astoundingly beautiful. I’ve been staring at it for almost ten minutes trying to figure out what to write. It has a molded, angular collar, ruffled and perfectly constructed shoulder pads, flowing/loose pleats and a laced up front. It is fresh, edited, and it perfectly captures the execution and intellectual input of which Bottega Veneta has no match.
This should come as no surprise – Balenciaga nearly always lands in my top three. This season Nicolas Ghesquiere returned to futurism, but with a much more toned down, careful approach. This look is completely wearable, but also completely innovative. The cutting and perforating, the strange-but-brilliant neckline, the shoes, the layering of the torso – this is all stuff that was conceived and developed in the mindset of being forward thinking but applicable to consumers’ needs – AKA – this was genius.
This shot comes from 3.1 Phillip Lim. I wanted to hint on the pseudo-parochial trend that emerged this season (Isabel noted so in her Yves Saint Laurent review), as well as the androgyny and beige coloring we’ve observed. This outfit, in particular, does a superb job of combining all three. Lim is usually very clean and thoughtful in his approach, but this outfit is really an outstanding example. Again, it is the intelligent mixing of influence with wearability. Throw in thigh-high Louboutin fishing boots and you are good to go.
Even play-it-safe-but-luxe Hermes (by J.P. Gaultier) took a new and successful approach. In the look shown above, which I guess was my 4th favorite of the month, Gaultier goes 1950-meets-2050 and I think it looks phenomenal. Crocodile high-waist pants, suspenders, technologic cut-outs and shapes, and a fedora.
All in all, what we saw was truly smart and developed and progressive thinking. Sad that it’s over, but I’m looking forward to the editorials and campaigns that are coming…
-Elliot
I’m completely and totally over Georgina Stojilkovic. Scr*w Glitter Lobster Hat. This song is my newest uber-obsession.
And it has a bit of a story. It all started when, about 2/3 through Phillip Lim’s FW2010 show, the music shifted. People pepped up, straightened their backs. What was this dark electro Lim’s girls were stomping down the runway to?
I searched and searched but to no avail (Lim fall 2010 soundtrack…etc), until last night – I was sitting in the backseat of a friend’s car driving to dinner, and wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am it all comes together. He had it on a CD he’d gotten at BASE actually. It’s called Poison Lips by Vitalic. I was thrilled.
Vitalic is from France. They’re super futuro-tech-y and smooth and clean and dark and just amazing. The video is art (and I’ve been watching Silence of the Lambs in film class…strange connections here). Going to go listen to this all day now. Tee Tee Why Elle.
-Elliot
